
Welcome to the RPN Motorsports Q&A page. Here you'll find answers to the most common questions we receive about engines, chassis setup, maintenance, and racing in general. If you don't see your question answered here, please contact us directly.
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Engines Chassis Setup Maintenance Fuel & Tuning General Racing
Engines
Rebuild frequency depends on the engine type and how many races you run. As a general guideline:
- Honda 120/160: Every 50-75 races or once per season
- Briggs Animal / World Formula: Every 40-60 races or once per season
- Modified / Open engines: Every 20-30 races
Signs you need a rebuild: loss of power, hard starting, unusual noises, or metal in the oil.
For most air-cooled four-stroke racing engines (Honda, Briggs), we recommend a high-quality synthetic 10W-30 or 15W-50 racing oil. Look for oils with high zinc content for flat tappet cam protection. Change oil every 3-5 race days or as specified in your engine manual.
RPN Recommendation: Briggs & Stratton 30W synthetic racing oil or AMSOIL 10W-30 synthetic small engine oil.
Here's a quick checklist:
- Fuel: Is there fresh fuel in the tank? Is the fuel line connected and not kinked?
- Spark: Check the spark plug. Is it wet? Is there spark? Clean or replace if needed.
- Air: Is the air filter clean? Is the choke in the correct position?
- Compression: Do you feel compression when pulling the rope? If not, valves may be tight or rings worn.
- Kill switch: Is the kill switch or tether in the "run" position?
The Briggs & Stratton Animal is based on a industrial engine block with racing modifications, while the World Formula is a purpose-built racing engine from the ground up. The World Formula typically has a different cylinder head, cam profile, and makes power in a different RPM range. The Animal is popular in many classes due to its reliability and cost-effectiveness, while the World Formula is often used in pure racing classes where maximum performance is desired.
Proper break-in is critical for engine life and performance:
- Start engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes with varying RPM (don't hold steady).
- Take the car to the track and run 5-10 laps at medium throttle, avoiding full throttle.
- Bring engine back, let it cool completely.
- Change oil and check valve lash.
- Now you're ready to race. For the first race, avoid sustained full-throttle runs for long periods.
Chassis Setup
A tight (push) condition means the front tires aren't turning enough. Try these adjustments (in order):
- Increase rear stagger (more right rear tire circumference)
- Reduce cross weight (less wedge)
- Soften the left front spring or stiffen the right rear spring
- Add more negative camber to the right front
- Move the Panhard bar (raise or shorten to increase left rear bite)
A loose condition means the rear tires are losing grip. Try these adjustments:
- Decrease rear stagger (smaller right rear or larger left rear)
- Increase cross weight (add wedge)
- Stiffen the left front spring or soften the right rear spring
- Reduce negative camber on the right front
- Move the Panhard bar (lower or lengthen to reduce left rear bite)
Baseline tire pressures (cold) for quarter midgets on a typical clay track:
- Left Front: 8-10 psi
- Right Front: 10-12 psi
- Left Rear: 8-10 psi
- Right Rear: 10-12 psi
Adjust based on track conditions and tire temps after practice.
Stagger is the difference in circumference between left and right rear tires. To measure:
- Use a flexible tape measure around the center of the tire tread.
- Measure left rear circumference.
- Measure right rear circumference.
- Subtract left from right = stagger (e.g., 34.5" RR - 34.0" LR = 0.5" stagger).
You can also use a stagger gauge to measure diameter and multiply by 3.14 for circumference.
Cross weight (wedge) is the percentage of total weight on the right front and left rear tires. It affects how tight or loose the car is.
To adjust:
- Increase cross weight (tighter): Shorten left front link or lengthen right rear link.
- Decrease cross weight (looser): Lengthen left front link or shorten right rear link.
See our full Cross Weights Explained guide for details.
Maintenance
For most racing engines, change oil every 3-5 race days or after every 4-6 hours of run time. If you're racing on a dusty track or in hot conditions, change more frequently. Always change oil after engine break-in.
Check valve lash every 5-10 race days or if you notice a loss of power or hard starting. For most Honda and Briggs engines, intake clearance is typically 0.003-0.005" and exhaust 0.005-0.007". Always check your engine manual for exact specifications.
Clean your air filter after every race day, or more often in dusty conditions:
- Remove filter and inspect for damage.
- Wash in warm water with mild soap or specialized filter cleaner.
- Rinse thoroughly until water runs clear.
- Squeeze out excess water (don't twist or wring).
- Let air dry completely (may take several hours).
- Apply filter oil evenly and let sit for 20 minutes before installing.
Regular lubrication points include:
- Rod ends (heim joints) - use lightweight oil or spray lubricant
- Kingpins and spindles - use grease or oil
- Chain - use chain lube after every race day
- Brake linkage and pivot points
- Throttle cable and linkage
Wipe off excess to prevent dirt buildup.
Fuel & Tuning
For most stock classes (Honda, Animal, World Formula), use fresh 93 octane pump gas with no ethanol if possible. For modified classes, you may run racing fuel like VP or Sunoco. Always check your class rules for fuel regulations.
Signs of correct jetting:
- Engine accelerates smoothly without hesitation
- Spark plug is light tan or gray color
- No popping or backfiring
- Good power throughout RPM range
If plug is black and sooty, you're rich (too much fuel). If plug is white or blistered, you're lean (not enough fuel). Adjust jet size accordingly.
A fuel stabilizer is recommended if fuel will sit for more than 2 weeks. For racing, some additives can help with octane or detergency, but they are not necessary for most stock classes. If you run ethanol fuel, a fuel stabilizer/conditioner is highly recommended to prevent corrosion.
General Racing
Gear ratio depends on track size, engine, and class. Start with recommendations from your chassis or engine builder. As a general rule:
- Small tracks (1/20 mile): 5.5 to 6.5:1 ratio (higher number)
- Medium tracks (1/16 mile): 5.0 to 5.5:1
- Large tracks (1/10 mile): 4.5 to 5.0:1
See our Gear Charts for detailed recommendations.
Required safety gear varies by track and organization, but typically includes:
- SA2015 or newer helmet
- Racing suit (fire-resistant)
- Gloves
- Neck collar or head and neck restraint (required in many series)
- Racing shoes
- Rib protector (recommended for quarter midgets)
Always check your local track rules for specific requirements.
Getting started in quarter midgets:
- Find a local track or club (see QMRA or USAC for listings).
- Attend a race to observe and talk to other racers.
- Purchase used or new equipment (chassis, engine, safety gear).
- Join the club and complete any required rookie orientation.
- Practice, practice, practice!
We're happy to help new racers get started. Contact us for advice on engine packages.
Still have questions?
If you didn't find the answer you're looking for, please reach out to us directly. We're here to help!